Thanks for your question! You probably are seeing Brown Patch attacking your yard. It is very common this time of year. It is a fungal pathogen that loves cool nights and warm days, so we frequently see it in the fall. Come see us and we can fix you up with some Fung-Away or Terraclor fungicide to fight back with. Some helpful hints to help manage this pest culturally are to avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer in the fall and avoid over watering your lawn. Try to water early in the morning as opposed to late evening. Late evening irrigation lets your turf stay wet (dewy) all night and tends to promote fungal growth. Flowering plants that tend to be pretty cold hardy are asters, chrysanthemums, clematis, snapdragons, pansies, dianthus, flowering kale, flowering cabbage, stock, petunias (may freeze in a hard freeze but will come back bigger and better in the spring), and alyssum. For containers, a beautiful plant that loves the cool weather (40-60 degrees) is clamen. It is really showy and comes in a number of colors that bloom for long periods of time. I always get some about this time of year and put it in the sunroom porch. It will bloom all the way into April. Come by our Garden Center and visit with some of our knowledgeable folks here and let them show you some of these cool-weather wonders. They will make a grouchy uncle smile on a winter day!

The best time to top dress your St. Augustine grass with topsoil is in late April or May. You need the St. Augustine to be very actively growing. Please remember that topdressing is to simply level and smooth your turf so only small amounts need to be used. Normally, two inches is the maximum amount that you would want to apply at any one time. Two inches will normally allow the grass to still push through and continue its growth without harming the turf. Renovation of areas is completely different from simple topdressing. If you have areas that due to circumstances have been damaged and need to be re-established, then you would want to apply your top soil, and then either sprig or sod that area. To save you some time, fertilization can be done at the same time you top dress with your topsoil. I would recommend our Brazos Best 21-7-14 for your lawn. It is an excellent product that is formulated for our area.

The most effective product for you to use is Glyphosate. You probably know it as Roundup. This is a very good grass killer that is effective on all types of grass and also on most broadleaf weeds. The good thing about the product is that it has NO soil activity. It is taken in by the leaves of the plant, and therefore is excellent to use in establishing turf. If you are planning on laying sod, I would wait until late March or April to spray the weeds and native grass on your lawn area. Let it completely kill the weeds and grass present. In some instances for extremely tough weeds or grass, it may take two applications. When there is no sign of green in the area, then prepare the area and lay your sod. The same will apply if you are going to plug the area. We at Producers Garden Center can get you the product you need. We can also get you the sod if you need it.

St. Augustine grass is a very prolific grass that spreads by stolons moving above ground. Each node on the stolon, when in contact with the ground will form a root system, thus allowing the grass to spread. In many instances, St. Augustine stolons are seen above other grasses because they are simply much larger and more visible than say Bermuda or Zoysia stolons. St. Augustine grass also does extremely well in shaded areas. Many times you will see St. Augustine grass moving into another grass because the other grass is not doing very well in the shade. Mixed grass lawns will have fierce competition between the species of grasses with each doing its best in conditions that are most conducive to its growth.

Pruning roses is very important to get more blooms and a more shapely plant. Roses produce blooms on new growth, so doing a good job of pruning will lead to a better looking and more colorful and productive plant. Timing is critical. Most of the bush type roses, including Hybrid Teas, Floribundas, and many others prefer to be pruned in late winter. When you prune, you can shape the plant to conform to what growth pattern you would like it to take and still get a maximum amount of new growth in the spring. Prune them back by about 50%. Climbing roses, on the other hand, are generally pruned in the late spring, after their main flush of spring blooms. Some varieties that we now have never really quit blooming until frost. They should be pruned lightly in late winter. Regardless of variety or type, start by pruning out all the dead, diseased, and unproductive canes first. Then, cut back the remaining canes by half. Cut just above buds that face away from the center of the plants. Use some sharp pruning shears and it's a good idea to cut at a slight angle. This way, the cut will not hold water and contribute to disease growth. Some folks like to paint a little clear shellac or white glue (not black pruning sealant) on the end. Prune climbers back to 4 to 5 feet after their peak spring bloom. Remove any weak canes. If you tie the canes into a horizontal positions versus vertical positions, you will get more blooms as a result. Lightly prune following each round of blooming and remove the spent blooms on Hybrid Teas (back to the second set of five part leaves). This should give you more growth in late season. Feed your roses with a 1-2-1 fertilizer beginning in early spring, about the time the first leaf buds start to break. Stop feeding about Labor Day. The granular products will last somewhat longer, the liquid plant foods will give you a faster response, but don't last as long in the soil. We keep several sources of fertilizer suitable in stock. We also stock numerous rose types to compliment your plantings.

The best time to prune bridal wreath is after they bloom. Prune dead, diseased and unproductive canes. Prune back those canes that bloomed all the way to the ground. Fertilize them with a high phosphorus fertilizer like a 1-2-1 ratio blend. Iron deficiency can be a problem with bridal wreaths in highly alkaline soils. I suggest you supplement with some iron (we keep it in the Garden Center). You may also consider some sulphur to correct the pH if you think that your soil has become too alkaline. Regarding crepe myrtles, they really don't have to be pruned, but some can be helpful. Now is a good time to prune out weak or damaged limbs. It is good to prune off the spent seed heads. Don't top the plant trying to get larger flower heads, since the heads you will get are often too big for the limbs they are on and thus distort the natural shape of the plant. You may wish to take out excess, congested interior limbs and unwanted basal sprouts. A good rule of thumb is to not remove anything bigger than a pencil in diameter (other than those interior limbs just mentioned). Fertilize your crepe myrtles in the early spring with ordinary high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer. We have the fertilizer in stock, as well as a great selection of crepe myrtles.

If you are on a city water system like Bryan or College Station, you will find that your water has a lot of salts that are tough on your plants. This is especially true if your plants are still in pots (the salts tend to accumulate in the pot). Rainfall will tend to leach a lot of the salts out if the plant is in the ground. Those same salts will tend to burn the leaves of your plants, so when you hand water, it is better to water under the plant rather than onto the foliage. Short of expensive reverse osmosis and/or acid injection water systems, the best things you can do is lean toward bedded plants over potted plants. Some folks harvest rainwater for irrigation (watch for those mosquito larvae, we have mosquito dunks for that). Your problems may be also soil related. Once you know what you are dealing with, we will be glad to help you with fertilizer recommendations for all your lawn and garden needs.

You can transplant your Pampas Grass. Get as much of the root ball as you can, keep it moist and transplant it as soon as you can. Slight thinning is in order if it is large. Come see us and pick up some soil conditioner and some root stimulator. The folks in the Garden Center can fix you up with some soil amendments that will help your transplant off to a good start.

Cedar trees are very shallow rooted trees that have massive root systems down to about 8. They take large amounts of water from this depth and would compete with any plants under them for moisture and nutrients. The massive root system also makes planting very difficult in the drip zone of the tree. I would recommend shallow rooted ground covers such as Asian Jasmine or English Ivy. At the garden center, we have used Carpet Bugle and it has done well. Another alternative is to add a 2-3 layer of potting soil under the tree and use annual plants. Remember, that with either alternative, you will be contending with the tree for moisture and nutrients, and also with the shade from the tree.

Daylilies are best transplanted when they are under the least stress. In our area, this is normally in the early spring and during the winter. As for methods of separating them, hands are best. Simply use your hands to break the clumps of bulbs apart.

Potatoes need adequate fertilizer very early in the season. Instead of rock phosphate, I would recommend that you use a complete fertilizer when planting. We have a complete fertilizer 17-17-17 which will contain all of the nutrients including phosphorus, which is what rock phosphate provides. It will also give your plants the needed nitrogen and potassium they need for good season growth. To apply the fertilizer, flatten your beds so they are 6-8 inches high and 10 inches wide. Dig your trench for your seed pieces in the middle of the bed. Then dig two trenches on each side of that initial trench about 2" away from the seed bed for your fertilizer. The two outside trenches should be about 1" deeper than your seed piece trench. Apply 1 lb (approximately 2 cups) of the 17-17-17 in each trench per 30 foot of row. Do not let the fertilizer come in contact with your seed pieces. We do have Super Phosphate which is 0-18-0 available in a 5 lbs bag if you only want the phosphate. However, you will get more bang for your buck by using the 17-17-17. Again, thanks for your question. If we at Producers can be of assistance, please contact me or one of our horticulturalists on staff.

Cannas are best moved when they are dormant with no green showing. This will normally be in January and February in our area. Cannas are very hardy and can even be moved when growing, provided they have adequate irrigation.

Roses are best planted when they are dormant. Dormant means that are not actively growing and have a lot of leaves. In our area, there are two times when roses could best be planted. The first is in February and March. The second is in November and December. Roses can also be planted at times slightly out of these date ranges depending on the condition of the plant and the temperatures outside. There are several things that you can do when planting roses that will give you a better opportunity for success. This includes using root stimulator, rose food and potting soils. We have all of these available at Producers Garden Center. Our staff at the Garden Center would be happy to assist you in selecting roses for planting. The best of luck to you in your gardening. May large, beautiful roses be in your future.

If your mimosas are vigorous and doing well in the pots, are about three or four feet tall, and also have a robust, well-established root system, now is a great time to get them in the ground. Trees that are fall planted have a big advantage over spring-planted trees. While the root system grows more slowly throughout the fall and winter, it is still at least growing. It therefore, has a jump-start on other trees that are not planted until the spring. If your trees do not meet the above criteria, keep them protected this winter in the pots and wait until spring to get them into the ground. Come see us at Producers and we can recommend the soil amendments that will help you get your transplant off to a good start. The appropriate materials applied at planting will make a big difference in the tree's ability to survive and begin healthy growth next spring.

Newly planted fruit trees will bear little fruit during the first season. Trees are trying to expend all of there energy on actively growing and putting on the structure that they will need to become healthy mature trees. The first year fruit drop is not unusual. The tree simply said "I am supposed to be growing and not fruiting so I'll get rid of this fruit to allow me to use my nutrients and water to grow more leaves and limbs." I know this is very simplified, but in essence this is the process. I would suggest that you prune your peach tree. Try to keep three or four main limbs. Try to get them as evenly spaced around the main trunk as possible. As this spring comes on, the tree will concentrate its growth on those limbs and make for a much stronger tree. This pruning needs to be done before bud break on your trees. You need to fertilize your trees in March with a complete fertilizer. We have Brazos Best 21-7-14 + micronutrients that will be good for the March application. You will need 2-3 cups per tree. You will need additional applications in the same amount in April, May, June and July. For these later applications, I would recommend the Brazos Best 21-7-14 + Micronutrients or Brazos Best 22-0-0-13 sulfur. As your trees mature, you will need to apply fertilizer in February using 2 cups per inch diameter of tree and in May apply 2 to 6 cups of the 22-0-0-13 sulfur depending on vigor of shoot growth. If your trees appear to be very healthy in August, then no fertilizer will need to be applied. If the trees are yellowing or appear unthrifty, then apply 3 cups of the 22-0-0-13 at that time. Irrigation is also critical during the summer months when your fruit trees are setting fruit. Water every two to three weeks with a heavy soaking. Please avoid frequent light waterings. The deeper, heavier watering will allow for deeper root growth. Fruit trees will always set more fruit than they can develop and sustain. Removing the excess fruit will allow the remaining fruit to be larger and prevent limb breakage. With a small tree, you can hand thin the fruit about 4 weeks after bloom. Space your fruit about one every 6 inches on a branch.

We have a variety of fruit trees in stock and should be getting more in January The fruit that you mentioned is a nectarine. It is a cross between a peach and a plum. We have several varieties in stock that are well adapted to our area. We do have landscape fabric. If you would let me know what the intended use will be, I can give you a better idea of the type we have that will fit your need. Fruit Trees In-Stock Seasonally... Be sure to call Producers Garden Center to check availability.

Many mulches will work for roses including pine bark, shredded hardwood and cypress. My favorite is shredded pine bark. This material tends to mat together and stay in place better, thus avoiding washing from beds when irrigating or during rainfall events. All mulches begin breaking down immediately as the microorganisms in the soil begin to work. Pine bark tends to have a lower ph and as it breaks down, it tends to use less nutrients, especially nitrogen in its decomposition thus reducing the need for additional fertilizer for the roses. It also tends to lower the soil ph which is conducive for rose production.

Soils are classified into the general categories of sand, silt or clay. Compost is either all organic matter, or a combination of organic matter and soil that has broken down and is ready to release its nutrients. Compost is a soil amendment. Soils are mineral in origin, and may or may not contain various levels of organic matter. Organic matter is of plant or animal origin. Sand, silt and clays are not inherently superior or inferior to one another. There will be wide variability of fertility within each class of soil. Clays typically contain more nutrients per given volume, but sands release their nutrients to the plant more easily. Amending either one with nutrient-rich compost will enhance the performance regardless of type.

For spiders, scorpions, and insect pests, use Suspend SC. Suspend is a concentrate that will make gallons of spray mix. It is labeled for indoor and outdoor use, as well as food preparation areas. We carry a number of rat and mouse control products, as well as products for controlling gophers, moles, and assorted other "wildlife".

We can help you control grasshopper damage. Below are insecticides rated and listed in order according to the Texas Cooperative Extension Bulletin Grasshopper Control Tips for Texas Landscapes. Please drop in and let us know about your situation so can help you get rid of the grasshoppers! INSECTICIDES: Bifenthrin -Bifen Lawn & Perimeter Granular Insecticide -Bifen I/T Cyfluthrin -Tempo SC Ultra Concentrate -Bayer Advanced Power Force RTU -Bayer Advanced Power Force Granules Permethrin -Hi-Yield Kill-A-Bug Granules -Delta Eight Granules -Martins Permethrin 10% -Martins Viper IC -Sniper Concentrate -Viper RTU -Suspend Concentrate -Martins Cypermethrin -Hi-Yield Garden, Pet & Livestock Spray Carbaryl -Sevin -Malathion BAITS & BIOLOGICAL CONTROL - Nolo Bait

Most apples sold in retail stores are harvested well before ripening. Apples like many fruits will continue to ripen after it is removed from the tree. The problem we have with such fruits is that they may have come from around the world. Much of the produce you purchase in the winter months is brought from other countries and thus the extended time it must set after harvest. My advice to your is to NEVER eat anything that appears diseased or in your case, moldy. I would suggest that you contact Texas Cooperative Extension and visit with a Family and Consumer Science Extension Agent about any question you might have with food products. They are better equipped to answer questions concerning food safety.